Cosmetic Preparation

Principle of preparation of medical and cosmetic products

Cosmetic preparation consists of:

 Active ingredient
 Base(Vehicle)
 Additional/auxilery substances

Additional substances

 Fragrances
 Coloured dyes
 preservatives

Active ingredient:
Definition:

 Antibiotic
 Antifungal
 Antiaging substances:retinoic acid,AHA
 Bleaching agent

Base/vehicle

 Definition
 Effect

Three elemental bases:

 Fatty bases

 Water,aqueous solutions

 Powders
Fatty bases:
 Main uses

Sources:

 Animal :lanolin,wool alcohol,spermateci
 Plant :olive oil,coconut,seasame…..
 mineral:paraffin

Fatty bases that appears in:

 Liquid (oil)
 Semisolid (fat)
 Solid (wax)

Animal derived fatty bases:
 Lanolin
 Wool alcohols*
 Spermaceti

 The efficacy of plant oil is similar to animal derived
fatty bases derived from minerals:
Paraffin oils:

 Liquid paraffin (liquid petroleum)
 Semi-solid paraffin, white soft paraffin
 Wax is solid paraffin

Characteristics:
 Yellow,innert,unpleasant greasy feeling ,occlusuve
Water,aqueous bases:
 Water
 Alcohol/tincture:stronger cooling effect
Powders

 Made of one or more solid ingredients

Main purpose of powders:

 Prevent friction
 Absorb excess moisture

Substances commonly used in powders
 Zinc oxide:covering and protecting
 Titanium dioxide
 Talc:magnesium polysilicate,innert,commercial preparations contain:zinc oxide,aluminium silicate
 Calamine:zinc oxide ,iron oxide
 starch

Combination of bases
 Fatty base +water :liquid emulsion or cream or ointment
 Powder +water:suspension ,solution
 Fatty bases +powder :paste

 Others:
 Lotions:Simple suspension/water,alcohol base
 Gels:is a solution,solvent may be
water,acetone,alcohol or propylen glycol,High molecular polymers:carboxypolymethylene,methyl cellulose

Pastes:
 Fatty base is usually petrolatum
 Powder is usually 20-50% of preparation
 Less greasy than oint
 Occlusive and protective

Powder with water:
 Suspension
 solution
Preservatives:
 Roles
 How contamination be recognized?

 Unpleasant smell
 Loses its uniform texture
 discoloration

 Benzoic acid
 Benzyl alcohol
 Formaldehyde
 Imidazolidinyl urea
 Parabens
 Quaternium 15
Type of creams
 Vanishing creams/Day cream
 Night creams/noutrishing
 Cleansing
 Moisturizing
 Foundation
 Cold creams
 Eye creams
Vanishing creams
 Relatively high water content
 Easy to wash off
 Cooling effect
 Some moisturizing effect
 Don’t have significant occlusive effect
 Tranparent
 Adding other substances:sunscrean
Night creams
 Higher oil content
 Greasier,more occlusive
 Moisturizer
 Contain various substances
Cleansing creams or liquid emulsion
Medium to high percentage oil phase

Difference:
Ingredient:+ mild surfactant
 Mechanism:
 application
Foundation creams
 Moisturizing
 Contain colouring agents:3-25%
 Contain sunscreen
 Conceal creamblemishes
Cold creams
 Pseudo-emulsions
 Cooling effect
 Does not contain an emulsifier
 Original formulation:olive oil,beeswax,rosepetals/oil,water,wax

 Borax

Moisturizing creams
1-occlusive :Impermeable barrier

2-Humectant :absorb water

Skin moisture & moisturizers
 Overview
 Dry skin causes
 Characteristics

 Natural factor for prevention of dryness

 Oily layer : sebum ,lipid degradation product
 NMF

Natural Moisturizing Factor:NMF
 Comprising 20-25% of keratinous layer

 Urea
 Lactic acid
 glycolic acid
 Phospholipids
 Malic acid
 Pyruvic acid
 Salts of pyrolidone carboxylic acid
Humectants:
Small molecules:

 Glycerine(glycerol)
 Sorbitol
 Propylen glycol

Large molecules:

 Glycosaminoglycans :hyaloronic acid
 Elastin,collagen,and other proteins

How to select a moisturizer
 Skin type :dry,oily ,normal,combination skin (T-zone)
 Consistency
 Additives
 Sunscreen
 Exotic ingredients